So you're new to studio or portrait photography, and you really want to get in the studio, but you have reservations!? 

 

Well, that's fine, some people prefer learning in their own time, so I created a bunch of little digestible video 101's with accompanying blogs that go into more detail.  There are a lot of things experienced photographers take for granted, and understanding how to set up some basic lighting and how said lights interact with one another, has to be up there.  If what I said on the studio day's page got you nervous, then this here is the page for you!  I know it's pretty intimidating to new photographers using photography strobe lighting and gear they don't quite understand, and all while in a new environment and with a model; it's a lot to take in and endure.  Having a little knowledge of our equipment (and lighting in general) will hopefully get you down here (or elsewhere), and shooting!  The rest is confidence, your eye, and experience!

The one piece of advice I'll give you in writing, is that, prosumer studio strobes (the majority that aren't too fancy) typically can't use a higher shutter speed than 200, some 160 possibly, or maybe even 125 to be safe side!  Those that can I wouldn't worry about any time soon, as they have different pros and cons you will not face often in the studio.  Aside from needing a hotshoe (where you attach an external flash to the top of your camera) for the trigger (again, check out the Studio Days blurb for more info on that), that's all you need in the studio to take an 'exposure' (picture/image) using strobe lighting.  A photography strobe pulse of light is so fast that it'll freeze basic movement, so unless you're using a shutter speed that is far too slow (which can be done creatively), a mega zoom, or there is a load of powerful ambient light that you're mixing with the flash; you shouldn't need more than a 125 shutter speed.  

If you're getting a black half of an image, or a black boarder above and below.. that is why.  That is your camera's shutter curtain in frame, and it happens when your sync speed is too high.. 160/200/250+.  This catches everyone out when they first start shooting.  Of course, there are exceptions to every rule, but keeping your shutter between 125 and 160 with very little ambient light, will in most cases do what you need it to do! 

 

Is it still not perfectly sharp, or it's blurry?  Well, I've never used a camera yet where everything if perfect 100% of the time, but it's possible you're underexposing the shot.  Having a bad exposure will lead to poor quality images.  As mentioned prior, it could be that there's too much ambient light too.  This means there is enough light to 'expose' your subject, and your camera moving while you're holding it is enough to create blur before the strobe light freezes it.. this used creatively is called 'dragging the shutter', but not ideal for your average studio image.  To check your ambient light, simply take the same shot with your strobe settings but with the strobe lights turned off, and if there's enough light to see details in the image; your camera is exposing that light too.  That will drastically increase the chance of any camera shake from an unsteady grip, or any movement from the model.